To better understand the differences between constructions, we have to ask ourserlves: what parts is a shoe composed of?
Uppers: The upper leather, the lining and the insole
Sole: The part of the shoe that makes direct contact with the ground when walking.
Welt: A feature that is exclusive to the Goodyear welt construction. The welt is the leather strap that covers that covers the area between the sole and the leather. Its main function is to attach the sole to the upper.
Blake Stitch VS Goodyear Welt
Now that we know the different parts to a shoe, and that their construction refers to the method of assembly, we can begin to describe the process behind both techniques. With Blake Stitch, the uppers (leather and insole) are stitched directly onto the sole. Goodyear Welt construction requires the next three steps:
1. Stitching the shoe's uppers to the welt.
2. Then a cork filling is applied within the centre of the sole.
3. Finally, the third step consists in stitching the welt to the outsole.
The main difference between them is that a Blake Stitch construction attaches the shoe's uppers to the insole and the outsole with the single stitch method. Whereas, with Goodyear construction, a welt interposes the uppers and the sole, meaning that the sole is not directly sown onto the uppers.
Blake stitch
Goodyear welt
Advantages and disadvantages to both constructions
In order to assist you further in choosing your ideal shoe, fit for every occasion, we will proceed to present the main advantages and disadvantages of both constructions.
Blake stitch
Advantages:
- Increased flexibility: made up of fewer layers in comparison to a Goodyear welted shoe.
- Decrease in price: due to being a simpler construction, in comparison with Goodyear, it lowers in price.
Disadvantages:
- Reduced impermeability and durability: made up of fewer layers in comparison to a Goodyear welted shoe.
- Complex resoling: A specific machine is required for resoling, consequently making the process slightly more complicated and expensive.
Goodyear welt
Advantages:
- Simple resoling: In the case that your shoes should need a resole, its Goodyear welt construction truly facilitates this process.
- Impermeability and durability: The extra layers used in this construction, ensure that the shoes be waterproof and long-lasting
- Increased comfort: The fact that the upper is not directly stitched onto the sole, alongside the layer of cork within, results in a shoe capable of adapting to your foot and the manner in which you walk.
Disadvantages:
- This construction requires additional materials, time and an artisan's high-level skill, which consequently increases the price-range of Goodyear welted shoes.
- The extra layers used in this construction also lead to it being less flexible in comparison to a Blake Stitched shoe.
Increased flexibility, more durability, overall comfort - evidently, the characteristics that define a Blake stitched or Goodyear welted shoe are unique. At Carmina Shoemaker we offer both types of constructions, as we recognise that each foot, each step, and each client is unique.
The world of shoemaking is, undoubtedly, a world filled with options and proposals. The different models, leather and colours are only a few of the options when it comes to choosing and purchasing a new pair of shoes.